Friday, January 11, 2013

Our last post from this adventure

We left Morelia midday on Tuesday by taking a taxi to the little airport about 15 miles out of town. We picked up a dumpy rental car and headed out for a couple more Pueblos Magicos. 


Church door in Tlalpujahua

It’s a bit tough driving in Mexico because there are NO road signs or any kind of sign to let you know where you are or where you are going. It was by luck, and much stopping to ask that we made our way to the Monarch butterfly country, incredibly wooded high mountain country straddling Michoacan and the state of Mexico. The narrow winding road was full of green scenery. We passed many small towns complete with ‘topes’, speed bumps that could send your car flying if you don’t slow down enough.
Church on the bill in Tlalpujahua

We pulled into Tlalpujahua in the early afternoon. We found a little posada just a couple of blocks from the town center. 
Tlalpujahua is a very small town in a steep valley, a colonial town famous for making Christmas decorations.
We had planned to visit the butterfly sanctuary from there but the weather pattern wasn’t conducive, too cloudy and chilly.



On to Valle de Bravo… again there was no signage to guide us to our destination. At one stop to ask for help Keith approached a truckload of heavily armed state police. Not only did they try to give us directions they volunteered to take us part way. This type of police interaction isn’t what I expected in Mexico, we followed the police escort truck complete with three men standing in the back with machines guns pointed in all directions. A bit spooky it was!




Valle de Bravo was a great surprise! Set next to a lake with tall mountains surrounding it, it’s another colonial gem.





Our main activity here has been meeting up with our friend Will and watching an international paragliding competition that just happens to being held here this week. 
Will & Keith at the launching site

It’s been nice to spend time with Will, one of Keith’s rescuers when he fell out of the sky nearly five years ago.



We went up to the mountain launching area and observed over 100 pilots inflate their wings and jump off a steep cliff. Again, the site was wonderfully green, how I love summertime weather & activity!
Will getting ready to launch
We have hung out a few times lakeside where the accomplished pilots land. It’s a party atmosphere; people celebrating their flights & congratulating new friends from, literally, around the world.     
Michael from Holland waiting for his turn to launch



Competitive pilots waiting for launch



There were hundreds of paragliders in the air at once!



This morning while showering, I looked down and saw this little creature. Yes, a scorpion. Keith captured it in a cup and took it down to the hotel’s owner who also runs the little grocery next door. He pulled the stinger off (their sting is just a bit stronger than a bee) and let it crawl up his arm, super yuck!

This morning we went down to the artisan market where we purchased some colorful serving pieces. The old woman recited some lengthy poems to us, in Spanish, which was very cool. Our purchases made her day and she blessed us with firm pats on the back.

 
This has been a super trip. We have loved having some relaxing time together. Tomorrow we will need to drive a little longer than three hours back to the airport north of Morelia. We are going to pay the tolls to take the highway back, it’s more direct and safer. 


Sunday, January 6, 2013

More images from colonial Morelia


 Today we started early with a pleasant stroll down La Calzada. This small walkway connects to the main street in town that runs in front of the Cathedral. Several miles are blocked off from traffic on Sunday for families to bike, walk, skateboard...
Calzada Fray Antonio de San Miguel
 We went inside of the most ornate church in Morelia, the Church of San Diego.




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A colonial aqueduct stretches for about a mile along the walk. 
Aqueduct
We passed many plazas with fountains & statues. 
General Morelos
 




We returned to the center of town & toured the Government Palace.




Palacio de Gobierno

Palacio de Gobierno

Palacio de Gobierno

Palacio de Gobierno
The Museum of Colonial Art was full of religious artifacts, most Jesus on the cross. 
Nativity at Museo de Arte Colonial
We boarded a old fashioned tour bus for an hour of intense Spanish as we drove past incredible architecture in this pretty city center. Our tour bus had a bit of a crash with a taxi cab, but no one was concerned. There was no exchange of insurance or even discussion between the drivers. Although the taxi cab was damaged we parted ways in a couple of minutes. Different...

Public Library




Church & Conservatory de Las Rosas

Fountain at Jardin de Villa Longin

 The skies turned rainy as we headed home. It was a relaxing Sunday! 


Fountain at Templo de San Francisco with Palacio Federal in the background


 Monday we walked around and took more pictures




 Morelia is a sweet city, everything tourist is an easy walk away. Our little apartment there was incredible, centrally located and very comfortable. We didn't eat out a single time in Morelia because we had such a nicely supplied kitchen. 




The only drawback, in my opinion, about Morelia was the pollution caused by many cars and very narrow roads with connected buildings fronts. Behind the facades may lie a beautiful garden or home, or a vacant lot.

We Three Kings... In Morelia


We are now in Morelia, Michoacan on the eve of Epiphany. The twelve days of Christmas end with the Feast of Epiphany. Celebrated on January 6, it is known as the day of the Three Kings: Caspar, Melchior and Balthasar.


In Mexico, the tradition is to celebrate by eating the rosca, a sweet bread formed in a circle.  The rosca is decorated with pieces of orange and lime, and is filled with nuts, figs, and cherries. Hot chocolate is served the rosca.
  So every year, on January 6, families all across Mexico gather around their tables to share the rosca de reyes.  A little plastic doll representing Jesus is placed in the bread. One year we celebrated with the Martain family & Lindsay with a Rosca. I was the one who found the prize, mine was a little metal elephant which we still have. 
 

The person who receives a piece of bread with this doll inside has to make the tamales used in the fiesta de la Candelaria on February 2. This celebration is the last of the Christmas festivities, 40 days after Jesus's birth.


Keith and I have enjoyed many Epiphany celebrations some with big parades, such as in Mexico City. But this evening’s celebration in front of the huge cathedral here in Morelia was really special.



Tens of thousands of people packed the streets and plazas around the cathedral. 


Stands were set up, bands played and the celebration was telecasted on national television. 





As the Three Kings arrived, proceeded by belly dancers and stilt walkers, children let loose of their balloons. Attached to the strings were their desires for gifts from the Magi.


You see, gifts are distributed by the Three Kings on Epiphany, not on Christmas Eve by Santa. Today is the children’s celebration of the holiday. Noche Buena, Christmas Eve, is a family dinner, not a gift giving extraganza.


Today as we left Patzcuaro for the short bus ride to Morelia, the plazas were packed with vendors selling simple children’s toys. The grandest presents I saw were tricycles. Parents were out with their little ones choosing gifts. Christmas here isn’t about the gifts, it’s about the birth of the baby Jesus. Imagine that?


We took a tour of the cathedral with a wonderful guide this afternoon. It was an interesting Spanish lesson!



We are so happy with our accommodations here in Morelia. We had planned to stay with a family for a little Spanish immersion, but our time has been shortened by an extension to Valle de Bravo to meet up with Will, a paragliding buddy. The same language school that would have supplied a family stay has a beautiful apartment building with 8 little studio apartments complete with kitchens. It is tastefully decorated and very quiet. Now this is the good life.










We have until Tuesday morning to explore Morelia and the surrounding area.